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Quetzaltenango

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Huipil WV126

Woman with
Flowers

 The city of Quetzaltenango, known locally as Xela, is the second largest city in Guatemala. Situated on an extended plain and surrounded by hills and volcanoes, the city of Quetzaltenango conserves the Quiche Maya's old traditions and the Colonial past, while maintaining the dynamics of modern life. The region was first occupied by Mam speakers who established the kingdom of Kulaha. However, the Quiche eventually conquered the region and displaced the Mam inhabitants. The new rulers formed the city of Xelaju at the base of the volcano, Santa Maria. The name Quetzaltenango, which means the place of the quetzal bird, was introduced by Spanish invaders who conquered the area under the leadership of Pedro de Alvarado. The Quiche Indians are still the major indigenous population within Quetzaltenango. They make up approximately fifty-five percent of the city's population.

The Quiche women of Quetzaltenango wear elegantly crafted garments. However, the use of the treadle loom has largely replaced the backstrap loom. Although each huipil has its own personal idiosyncrasies, a number of features unite the huipils of Quetzaltenango as social markers of the city's indigenous population. One feature which is immediately apparent is the intricately embroidered flowers surrounding the neck and over the seams between the webs of fabric which compose the huipil. This is, perhaps, one of the most explicitly identifiable characteristics of a Quetzaltenango huipil.

Notice that the huipil, WV126, has a square neck opening while the bottom garment has a circular opening. The square opening is a marker for a newer huipil whereas older garments are made with a circular neck opening. Another trait which identifies the this huipil as a more recent creation is the use of vertical pleating on the left and right webs of fabric.

Other features which are characteristic of Quetzaltenango huipils are the modest use of velvet which surrounds the neck line, and the arm holes, as well as the horizontal double-weft-faced bands with intricately brocaded designs. Weavers take great care in assuring that the horizontal bands match exactly when sewing together the three webs of fabric which comprise the huipil. The brocaded motifs are remarkably similar between the two huipils. Yet another aspect that is common to the huipils of Quetzaltenango is the considerable length of white fabric below the decorated area, although this characteristic of the huipils is not visible when the garment is worn.

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